Countless wines have been tasted and enjoyed by finews.asia wine editor Peter Keller. As 2022 draws to a close, he shares his five favorites occupying a highly coveted place in his cellar.
Although it cannot be proven the bon mot that life is too short to drink bad wine can be attributed to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, others, including banker Oswald Gruebel, have invoked the sentiment when sharing it with their closest friends.
A wine year inevitably means that not all tastings are of the same high standard. Nevertheless, exceptional discoveries can be made at several events and with regular visits to restaurants. Some wines are of such a high standard they found their way into my cellar.
Five countries – Five Reasons
From a large selection of wines tasted, I have chosen five favorites from as many countries that have particularly impressed me this year for different reasons.
1. The Classic: Château Clerc-Milon 2020, Bordeaux
It is an annual ritual when the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux presents the latest vintage in November. This time it was the turn of 2020, which again turned out to be excellent. Among the standouts is Château Clerc-Milon from Pauillac.
This classic Bordeaux promises to make a big mark in a few years, as its assets prove: multilayered bouquet with notes of blackberries, spicy-floral notes, powerful on the palate, elegant, complex, endowed with fine tannins and good acidity, long-lasting finish.
Clerc-Milon, rated 5ème Grand Cru Classé, is predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, complemented by Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot (price: 80.50 francs).
2. The Elegant: Chianti Classico 2020, Tenuta di Carleone, Tuscany
Sangiovese is the great grape variety in Tuscany. Unfortunately, many wines have become quite heavy, and high in extract and alcohol in recent years. This inhibits the drinking flow, leaving one exhausted after a glass.
Winemaker Sean O'Callaghan cultivates a different style at Tenuta di Carleone. His vineyards in Radda are located at higher altitudes, benefitting the wines. The elegant, biodynamically produced Chianti Classico 2020 presents itself with a rather cool aroma and a present acidity.
It is medium-bodied, well-structured, and fortunately manages without any disturbing notes of wood, having been aged in cement tanks (price: 21.90 francs).
3. The Patriotic (if you're Swiss): Pinot noir Auvernier 2018, Domaine de la Maison Carrée, Neuchâtel.
One of the most beautifully situated restaurants is «Aux Trois Amis» in Schernelz with a fantastic view of Lake Biel and the Alps. If you don't choose a local wine for a change, head for neighboring Neuchâtel.
There, in the village of Auvernier to be precise, lies the Domaine de la Maison Carrée of the Perrochet family. The flagship winery produces high-quality, highly filigree wines. For example, the Pinot noir Auvernier, even in the hot year of 2018, is not heavy or overripe.
The growth is expressive, medium-bodied, and elegant. The use of wood is skillful and never overbearing. Few estates in Switzerland produce such excellent wines, which are highly sought after and sell out quickly (price: 29 francs).
4. The Pearl: Blanc de Blancs Brut 2014, Nyetimber, England.
When you think of sparkling wines, you automatically think of Champagne. But France's prestigious wine-growing region is increasingly facing competition from, among other regions, England. The south of the country benefits from climate change and has the same limestone soils and grape varieties as Champagne.
These are perfect conditions for excellent sparkling wines. Among the top is the Nyetimber estate. Its Blanc de Blancs Brut 2014, made exclusively from Chardonnay, is in a league of its own. It boasts a multilayered aroma of white fruits and brioche notes, fine perlage, and a dry, rich, creamy, fresh, elegant, long, mineral-influenced finish (price: 89.90 francs).
5. The traditional: Rioja Crianza Vina Cubillo 2013, Bodega Lopez de Heredia, Rioja.
Modern or traditional? This question arises in the well-known Spanish cultivation of Rioja. The time-honored Bodega Lopez de Heredia has dedicated itself to traditionally produced red wines.
They are allowed a long aging period. Even a Crianza matures for three years in wooden barrels, and the results are stunning, as Vina Cubillo 2013 proves. It has a rather light ruby red color, and aromatic fragrance, is dense and elegant, with fine tannins and good acidity, and nice length, and is now of perfect drinking maturity.
The Rioja is composed of Tempranillo and small proportions of Garnacha and Mazuelo (price: 19.90 francs).