finews.asia met with Gérard Bouleau, Vice President of Groupe Bollinger, at the occasion of the 200th anniversary of the Cognac maison Delamain. In the interview, he talks about the luxury wine and spirits market, the unique appeal of Delamain, and his journey into the world of cognac. 

Gérard Bouleau, you’ve traveled the world and experienced the luxury industry in-depth. What makes Delamain stand out in the world of cognac?

Delamain’s magic lies in its unwavering dedication to craftsmanship. We focus solely on quality, and that means rejecting anything that could compromise it, even if it means limiting productivity. One example is that we source only from Grand Champagne, the Premier Cru of Cognac, and we age everything longer than usual – our starting point is XO. No shortcuts here.

We have many cellars (chais), also very small ones. Moving a cask from a chai to another, from one place in the chai to another in order to ensure perfect aging, is magic and a big mastermind or Tetris if you may.

«It was never just about business»

Finally, we also maintain a complex system where we «complete» the evaporation, or what we call the «angel's share.» We are not using distilled water as it's usually done. This also is delicate and time-consuming. And even the way we unbottle and present our products is part of that attention to detail. Everything counts in maintaining our DNA of craftsmanship.

Groupe Bollinger is known for its commitment to small-scale, high-quality brands. Why did it acquire a majority stake in Delamain, a small cognac producer with just 18 employees, in 2017?

I wasn’t with Groupe Bollinger when Delamain was acquired, but it was never just about business. There was a long-standing admiration for Delamain within the Bollinger family long before the acquisition. When you visit the Bollinger house in Aÿ-Champagne, you'll see a large magnum of Delamain that have been cherished for ages. In fact, there have been many magnums of Delamain, because they drink it.

«We prefer to focus on the human-sized operations that allow for real attention to detail»

For us, Delamain fit right in. Much like Chanson and Bollinger, Delamain shares our obsession with quality and craft. We’re not about producing massive volumes; we prefer to focus on human-sized operations that allow for real attention to detail.

Groupe Bollinger is comprised of 440 hectares and 440 employees. Would you say that staying small is part of your broader strategy? 

Absolutely. We believe the future of wine and spirits is about drinking less but drinking better. That’s good for the planet and for consumers. We aim to grow in value rather than volume. Sometimes we're even limited by our sourcing, like in Sancerre. But we embrace it. We want to offer exceptional products and experiences, not just more of them.

Personally, how has your view of cognac evolved over the years?

Cognac was a recent discovery for me! Like many French people, I used to think it was old-fashioned, unlike in markets like the U.S. or China. My turning point came during a blind tasting. I was amazed. Cognac can rival and often surpass, some of the best whiskies and rums out there. Its floral and profound notes, stemming from grapes rather than grains, offer a whole different sensory experience.

Now, I enjoy cognac regularly, and I think we should stop treating spirits as entirely separate categories. Good spirits, whether whisky, rum, or cognac, share a lot more common ground than people realize.

Do you think there’s a future for ultra-small, top-quality producers?

I certainly hope so. We are optimistic and active in expanding our portfolio. Just this past year, we acquired three new wineries. We’re very careful about maintaining our human-sized ethos, but there’s definitely room for growth.

We see Delamain becoming more available globally, especially with a focus on markets like China and the U.S.

«Whether it's a bartender in Paris or a Michelin-starred restaurant in Stockholm, we want to help them curate the best possible selection of spirits»

You’ve had a career in large-scale food and beverage companies. What are you bringing to Groupe Bollinger?

My primary goal is to ensure the individual brands under our umbrella-like Bollinger, Chanson, and Delamain – stay true to their unique identities and craftsmanship. But I also see potential in getting them to work smarter together. For instance, we’ve initiated collaborative projects between our cellar masters and vineyard managers to develop the best sustainable practices.

It’s about building a community of shared intelligence while avoiding centralization. Each company must maintain its autonomy, but when it comes to areas like sustainability or product tasting, there’s so much value in collective brainstorming.

«We should be out there not just selling bottles»

We’re also focusing more on how we present ourselves to consumers and business partners. Cognac, for example, isn’t always seen as trendy, especially in France.

But we should be out there not just selling bottles, but educating and advising. Whether it's a bartender in Paris or a Michelin-starred restaurant in Stockholm, we want to help them curate the best possible selection of spirits.

Gérard Bouleau is the Vice President of Groupe Bollinger, a historic and prestigious French wine and spirits group. Before joining Bollinger, he held leadership roles at renowned brands like Barilla, Kronenbourg, and Valrhona, bringing decades of experience in the food and beverage industry.