Extreme shapes, bold colors, and creative materials–for years, watchmakers have been joyfully exploring the realm of extravagance. Yet sometimes, less is more, and a return to classic style codes feels just right. The moment is now.
By Marianne Eschbach
Just as the tuxedo and the little black dress are cornerstones of elegant wardrobes, so-called «dress watches» remain timeless companions. They celebrate the core values of watchmaking, primarily showcasing the time, exuding classic design, and surprising with refined details.
Their visual appeal is as timeless as the reduction to black and white. Investing in a good watch in this style is as sensible as equipping one’s wardrobe with these essential pieces of resistance.
Modern Formality
To freshen up your dinner conversation, here’s a quick dive into fashion history: the tuxedo, also known as a dinner jacket (UK) or tuxedo (US), is a British invention that replaced the uncomfortable tailcoat as formal evening attire for men.
It was Savile Row tailor Henry Poole who designed the first dinner or smoking jacket without tails for Albert Edward, Prince of Wales and later King Edward VII, in the second half of the 19th century.
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The little black dress, meanwhile, is somewhat younger. Its main champions were fashion designer Gabrielle Chanel, who transformed the black widow’s attire of the post-World War I era into a fashion statement of elegance and modernity in 1926, and her contemporary Hubert de Givenchy, who immortalized it on Audrey Hepburn in «Breakfast at Tiffany’s» in 1961.
Speaking of which: a few sparkling diamonds can elevate the precision of a dress watch even further. The festive season is the perfect moment to showcase these elegant timepieces – be it at Christmas dinners, the opera, or refined New Year’s celebrations.
And there is still enough time to add the «wrist tuxedo» to your wish list.
1. Golden Ratio
The asymmetrical dial design, crafted according to the aesthetic principles of the golden ratio, remains as contemporary as ever, even 30 years after its debut in this limited anniversary edition.
A.Lange & Söhne «Lange 1» (38.5 mm) in platinum with onyx dial, hand-wound in-house caliber. Price upon request. (Image: Courtesy)
2. Black as Night
When Neuchâtel watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet opened his Paris workshop on the Île de la Cité in 1775, he not only introduced technical innovations but also a revolutionary aesthetic simplicity and focus on legibility.
Breguet «Classique 5177» (38 mm) in platinum with Grand Feu enamel dial, automatic in-house caliber, alligator leather strap. 36,800 Swiss francs ($41,200) (Image: Courtesy)
3. Bold Elegance
Far ahead of her time, Coco Chanel infused elegance with a modern, sporty edge. The house’s iconic watch model follows the founder’s credo and, in its new version, adds a cool touch when paired with a women’s tuxedo. The movement is assembled at the Kenissi manufacture in Le Locle, in which Chanel holds a stake.
Chanel «J12 Calibre 2.1» (38 mm) in ceramic and yellow gold with diamonds and sapphire case back. Automatic movement. 25,050 francs (Image: Courtesy)
4. Ice Cubes, Softly Clinking...
This jewelry watch from the late 1990s is making a comeback, and nearly 30 years after its launch – with a subtle update and a sprinkle of Bella Hadid’s fairy dust – it feels as modern as ever.
Chopard «Ice Cube» (25 mm) in ethical white gold with Asscher-cut diamonds, quartz movement and alligator strap. Price upon request, not available online. (Image: Courtesy)
5. A Hint of Gold
A classic in contemporary design, this watch exudes confident elegance. Its domed sapphire glass and equally curved dial perfectly complement the soft, lens-like shape of the case.
Nomos Glashütte «Orion neomatik 41 Datum New Black» (41 mm) in stainless steel with gold date and gold-plated hands, automatic in-house movement. 3,830 francs (Image: Courtesy)
