The Second Life of a Swiss Watch Brand

A Dutch entrepreneur has revived a dormant Swiss watch brand, creating new timepieces steeped in history. Among collectors, these elegant watches are already a sensation, offering remarkable luxury at highly affordable prices.

The watch company Lebois & Co was founded in 1934 in Besançon, France, by the Dodane family, though nearly all production took place in Switzerland. After initial success, the company succumbed to the quartz crisis in the 1970s, like many other manufacturers.

Dodane watch factory (Image: CDMLEC)

Despite the quartz technology being invented in Switzerland, it found little acceptance among local watchmakers. Japanese competitors, particularly Seiko, embraced quartz movements, producing cheaper and more accurate watches. As a result, many Swiss manufacturers did not survive the crisis. Lebois & Co ceased operations in 1972.

Unexpected Comeback

More than 40 years later, the brand made an unexpected return. In 2012, Dutch entrepreneur Tom van Wijlick and his wife Eveline stumbled upon a vintage 1945 Lebois & Co chronograph at a Christie’s auction. Enchanted by the piece, they decided to breathe new life into the brand.

Lebois team (Image: CDMLEC)

Through their Dutch company, Compagnie des Montres Lebois et Cie B.V. (CDMLEC), they acquired the brand rights in 2014, followed shortly by those for the Airain (pilot watch) collection, also formerly owned by the Dodane family.

Commitment to «Swiss Made»

The first two new Lebois watches, including the still-available Venturist, featured modern designs. However, van Wijlick envisioned bringing the historic brand into the contemporary era in an unconventional way.

Through a multi-stage evaluation process, potential buyers were invited to decide online on key elements of the watches, such as the movement, case design, and most importantly, the dial layout, which would ultimately define the distinctive Heritage Chronograph collection. A key principle remained non-negotiable: the watches had to be «Swiss Made.»

Crafted in Multiple Steps

(Image: CDMLEC)

This design process unfolded in 2021. By December, the first computer-generated prototypes by Geneva-based designer Matthieu Allègre were ready, allowing pre-orders.

Four dial designs were offered, ranging from silver with multicolored scales to black with gold accents. The most popular was the salmon-colored dial, available in two versions, which remain the bestsellers today. These dials not only reflect Lebois & Co's rich chronograph tradition but also the mid-20th-century luxury watch trends.

Affordable Luxury Watches

Buyers were given a choice of movements: a cam-lever chronograph from ETA or Sellita, or a column-wheel chronograph from La Joux-Perret (LJP) in La Chaux-de-Fonds, akin to the Valjoux 22 and 72 calibers used in vintage Lebois & Co pieces. Despite the higher price of the LJP movement, it overwhelmingly won the vote, as customers valued durability and smoother operation enough to justify the cost.

These luxury watches remain accessible, priced at around 3,000 francs. Technical design and assembly are conducted in Ticino, upholding the «Swiss Made» standard.

Digital Twin

Each watch is accompanied by a «digital twin,» stored on the blockchain for authentication and integration into the brand’s CDMLEC loyalty program. Enthusiasts often purchase entire collections, which will soon expand with additional models.

All in all, these are unique timepieces that build on the legacy of a historic brand while setting new accents with contemporary aesthetics. Initially, the models were only available for pre-order and advance payment via the Lebois website.

However, over the past two years, van Wijlick has expanded the business model, establishing inventory and an international dealer network that supplies markets in the Netherlands, France, the UK, Italy, Kuwait, Japan, and the United States. As the entrepreneur told finews.ch, additional countries are in the planning stage.

New Fixoflex Bracelets Coming Soon

While the watches currently feature simple straps available in various materials and colors, suede options tend to wear quickly, which can detract from the watch's elegance. Metal bracelets, however, have proven more durable. Fixoflex, a strap brand under CDMLEC, is set to release bracelets for Lebois models, enhancing their appeal.

Public Recognition