From Flamboyant to Playful: Watch Novelties from the LVMH Universe

From Flamboyant to Playful: Watch Novelties from the LVMH Universe

The dry spell between the end of the year—when one or the other watch wish was fulfilled under the Christmas tree—and April, when the new watch year really takes off with the major «Watches and Wonders» fair in Geneva, has been bridged since 2020 by the watch brands of the LVMH Group with their own early Watch Week. We present the most exciting novelties.

By Marianne Eschbach

It all began in 2020. The world's largest and most important watch fair at the time, Baselworld, had just been laid to rest, and the pandemic lockdown had not yet been imposed when four LVMH brands—Bulgari, Hublot, Tag Heuer, and Zenith—presented their novelties in Dubai, ahead of all other watch brands.

The «LVMH Watch Week» was born and was, according to its organizers, an instant success—so much so that two subsequent digital editions during the pandemic years could not diminish its impact. Later editions took place in Singapore and Miami, and for 2025, Los Angeles was on the agenda.

Small but refined

However, the devastating wildfires in the first weeks of the year made it impossible to hold the event in the Californian metropolis as planned, leading to a last-minute split; the timepiece preview for the American market took place in New York, while European audiences received the information ten days later in Paris. A statement from the organizers explained the choice of these two locations: «to connect the two continents that are of central importance to the LVMH Group.»

The French luxury conglomerate's watch portfolio now also includes small, refined niche brands like Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta (1931–2011). The latter was one of the most famous watch designers of the 1970s, responsible for icons such as Audemars Piguet’s «Royal Oak,» Patek Philippe’s «Nautilus,» Cartier’s «Pasha,» and as early as 1959, Omega’s «Constellation.»

Following in the footsteps of Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta

Gérald Genta founded his own watch company in 1969, which, after a brief period of Asian ownership, ended up with Bulgari and thus LVMH. A few years ago, LVMH decided to relaunch the brand, known for its expressive designs. Daniel Roth (78), a master watchmaker, was among those who preserved traditional watchmaking craftsmanship through the Quartz Crisis. He has worked for major brands, including many years at Breguet.

In 1988, Daniel Roth launched his own watch brand, whose elegantly distinctive mechanical timepieces in their signature elliptical gold cases unmistakably reflect Breguet’s aesthetic codes. The Daniel Roth brand was acquired by Bulgari in 2000 and disappeared from the market until two years ago, when it was revived under the guidance of Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini at Louis Vuitton’s Geneva-based Fabrique du Temps, with the support of Roth himself.

Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co., and L'Épée join the stage

Daniel Roth’s «Extra Plat Souscription» and Gérald Genta’s extravagant «Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal» were both unveiled at LVMH Watch Week.

For the first time, this year’s event also included brands Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co., and L’Épée 1839. LVMH acquired the Delémont-based maker of mechanical table clocks and extraordinary timepieces last year, while Tiffany & Co. had already been purchased in 2021 for over $16 billion.

From four to nine

The group's watch portfolio has thus grown to nine brands. L’Épée enriches the watch world in 2025 with a mechanical storage and presentation box made of acrylic glass, while Tiffany & Co. honors legendary French designer Jean Schlumberger (1907–1987) with jewelry watches featuring his signature ornamentation.

Louis Vuitton, in turn, presented the nostalgically styled «Tambour Convergence» table clock and a new version of the «Tambour Spin Time,» the haute horlogerie timepiece that marked the brand’s entry into watchmaking in 2009. As different as the presented novelties are, they share one thing in common: noble materials, sophisticated technical features, and prices that climb steeply.

1 Playful Mechanics

Two mainspring barrels provide power for an impressive ten-day power reserve, displayed on a digital indicator. Inspired by model construction systems like Meccano, this watch offers a stage for micro-mechanics and creative engineering.

Hublot «Big Bang Meca-10» (42 mm) in King Gold, skeletonized dial, in-house manual-winding movement with 10-day power reserve, 38,900 Swiss francs or $44,100 (Image: Courtesy)

2 Creative Complication

Inspired by split-flap display boards at airports and train stations, the master watchmakers of Fabrique du Temps have achieved a never-before-seen interpretation of the traditional jumping hour display. «Taiko» refers to Japanese ceremonial drums.

Louis Vuitton «Tambour Taiko Spin Time» (39.5 mm) in white gold, dolphin-gray dial with light gray rotating cubes for jumping hour display, new version of the brand’s first haute horlogerie watch from 2009, 79,500 francs (Image: Courtesy)

3 Noble Niche

Founded in 1988, Daniel Roth is a relatively young watch brand that has already seen its share of ups and downs, including acquisitions and a temporary discontinuation of operations. All the more remarkable, then, that these refined timepieces are now experiencing a renaissance under the umbrella of Louis Vuitton and the watchful eye of their founder.

Daniel Roth «Extra Plat Souscription» (38.6 x 35.5 mm) in yellow gold, hand-guilloché gold dial, mechanical in-house manual movement, assembled by master watchmakers at Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, 45,000 francs (Image: Courtesy)

4 Full Speed Ahead

During the demanding Monte Carlo Rally in 1965, Porsche astonished the world with a slightly modified version of its newly launched 911 model, securing top positions. The timing was measured using precision instruments from Heuer. The new chronograph pays homage to this glorious era.

Tag Heuer «Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye» (42 mm) in stainless steel or yellow gold, automatic chronograph movement, domed glassbox sapphire crystal, perforated calf leather strap, 10,000 or 24,000 francs (Image: Courtesy)

5 Upgrade

In 1948, Bulgari launched its iconic «Serpenti» watch design—an era when quartz movements were not yet available. At the time, the watches featured fine automatic movements. It makes perfect sense for the brand to return to its original spirit with a new, fully in-house developed and manufactured automatic movement from its Le Sentier workshop.

Bulgari «Serpenti Seduttori» (35 mm) in yellow gold with diamonds, new in-house automatic movement Lady Solotempo BVS100, price upon request (Image: Courtesy)

6 Transparency

The art of skeletonizing movements and dials has been a long-standing tradition in the watch industry. With this model, Zenith takes a modern and artistic approach to this classic finishing technique.

Zenith «Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton» (42 mm) in stainless steel, El Primero automatic movement, skeletonized movement and openworked dial, delivered with both steel and rubber straps, 14,900 francs (Image: Courtesy)

7 Flamboyant

Not just sleek steel watches: the sea urchin (French «Oursin") is a brilliant example of Gérald Genta’s love for vibrant colors and precious gemstones.

 
Gérald Genta «Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal» (36.5 mm) in yellow gold with fire opal beads, cornelian dial, automatic movement, alligator leather strap, price upon request (Image: Courtesy)

8 Blue Hour

The highlight of this jewelry watch is the rotating dial ring with golden cross-stitch details. The iconic cross-stitch motif is a reference to Jean Schlumberger’s heritage in an Alsatian textile dynasty.

Tiffany & Co. «Jean Schlumberger Twenty Four Stone» (39 mm) in white and yellow gold with diamonds, mechanical automatic movement, alligator strap in Tiffany Blue®, price upon request (Image: Courtesy)