2025 Time Trends: From Rolex to Patek Philippe
Anyone keeping up with the times is wearing color this year – bold or pastel – along with precious metals, intricate mechanics, and trusted classics on the wrist. Here are some of the standout debuts and top trends from the Geneva watch fair.
By Marianne Eschbach
Last week’s tariff bombshell out of Washington didn’t dampen spirits at the world’s largest watch fair. According to its final communiqué, Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025 delivered only positive numbers: Attendance hit 55,000, up 12 percent.
There were 6,000 industry professionals (+5 percent), 1,600 media reps (+7 percent), 23,000 ticketed visitors (+21 percent), 43,000 hotel nights (+17 percent), and 12,000 sales meetings (+21 percent) – all increases over last year.
The 60 exhibiting brands reportedly reached an audience of 700 million people globally through articles, online content, and social media. The upbeat mood on-site will hopefully translate into sales momentum throughout the year – unless derailed by another twist in U.S. politics.
Smaller, Bolder, More Refined
Reinventing the watch may seem as futile as reinventing the wheel, but creativity in the industry remains unshaken. There’s always room to improve. Case sizes are being tweaked: downsizing is in, with 34, 36, and 38 mm trending. These subtle reductions transform the look and feel and offer greater unisex appeal.
Bold dial and strap colors are turning watches into style statements. Ceramic case colors are expanding, too. Movements are reaching record-breaking thinness – Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo now features the world’s flattest tourbillon – while complications are scaling new heights: Vacheron Constantin’s Solaria packs in 41 of them, a record.
Gold and Platinum in Demand
Sky-high precious metal prices haven’t deterred watchmakers from going full gold to boost prestige. Weighty platinum is also showing up more often in new models. Even a reinvention of the classic seems possible: with the Land-Dweller, Rolex has delivered a modern technical and visual spin on its iconic Datejust.
The 2025 fair concluded on April 7 with the proclamation of the first-ever International World Watch Day, to be observed on October 10. The date 10.10 was not chosen at random – it reflects the standard hand position of watches paused for display, symbolizing a smile.
According to its founding document, the day will celebrate the passion for watchmaking around the globe. Since 2020, horology has been recognized as UNESCO cultural heritage. A global day was the missing piece. Its inaugural edition will showcase the full range of the craft, from artisanal to scientific, and be live-streamed across time zones.
Watch lovers are already marking their calendars.
1. Decidedly Modern
The new Rolex model made a surprise debut on Roger Federer’s wrist just before the fair. The in-house developed high-frequency movement features an innovative escapement and a brand-new oscillator. The model is the subject of 32 patent applications.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller (40 mm) in stainless steel with white gold bezel, new automatic mechanical movement, newly developed flat Jubilee bracelet, $14,200 (Image: Courtesy)
2. A Window Into the Past
Cartier’s Privé collection reinterprets an iconic watch design each year – and there’s no shortage of material. The 1928 Tank with time windows returns with a captivating digital time display.
Cartier Tank à Guichets in platinum/gold with a hand-wound movement developed exclusively for this model, winding crown at 12 o’clock, price on request (Image: Cartier & Valentin Abad, Courtesy)
3. Color Pop
Founded in 1828, the Neuhausen-based brand H. Moser & Cie. combines fine watchmaking with bold, playful interpretations. The Pop Collection is its latest burst of color and creativity.
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Small Seconds Concept Pop (38 mm) in stainless steel, automatic movement with gold rotor, stop-seconds function, and Straumann® hairspring for greater precision. Gemstone dial in pink opal and Burmese jade/turquoise and coral/lemon chrysoprase and lapis lazuli, $30,500 (Image: Courtesy)
4. Complicated and Priceless
Grande complications are the pinnacle of fine watchmaking, packing immense complexity into tiny movements – 799 components in this case – and defining the legacy of traditional houses. After a quieter spell, the category made a strong comeback at this year’s fair.
Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G-001 (42 mm) in white gold, automatic mechanical movement, minute repeater, instantaneous perpetual calendar with a 30-millisecond date switch, split-seconds mono-pusher chronograph, $1,050,000 (Image: Courtesy)
5. A Classic With a Twist
Watch brands often highlight heritage pieces during anniversary years. A vintage aesthetic with modern updates is particularly appealing. Vacheron Constantin leads by example with a redesigned dial and vivid green strap for its minimalist 1950s design.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Automatique (40 mm) in white gold, automatic mechanical movement, anniversary dial with a special Maltese cross motif for the 270th jubilee, green alligator leather strap, $34,700 (Image: Courtesy)
