In a conversation with finews.asia, the Bulgari CEO discusses the brand's evolution from its roots in luxury jewelry to becoming a major force in Swiss watchmaking. As a driving figure behind «Geneva Watch Days,» Babin reveals the most complex watch in Bulgari's history and explains how the brand continues to innovate with technical achievements and unique artistic collaborations. He also gives his perspective on the recent management reshuffling at the LVMH watch division.
Mr. Babin, many people recognize Bulgari primarily as an Italian jeweler, but less so as a Swiss watchmaker. We’re meeting at the «Geneva Watch Days,» where you are a pivotal driving force. Does this event bolster Bulgari's image as a watchmaker?
Indeed, the event plays a role in enhancing the visibility of Bulgari as a watchmaker. While we participate in «Watches and Wonders,» in April, we also have a strong presence at the «Geneva Watch Days,» towards the end of August, and take part in the «LVMH Watch Week» at the start of each year. Each of these events contributes to reinforcing our profile within the watchmaking industry.
Bulgari was founded 140 years ago. How did the brand evolve from its roots in jewelry to becoming a watchmaker?
Bulgari's venture into watchmaking began in 1919, not too long after our establishment as jewelers. The first timepieces were jewelry watches for women, designed as part of a «parure» set that included a necklace, ring, earrings, bracelet, and watch—typically crafted from platinum and diamonds. This tradition carried on until the 1970s, when we shifted towards creating everyday watches for women with the Tubogas collection, which paved the way for the iconic Serpenti line. In 1975, with the introduction of the Bulgari Bulgari collection, we expanded into the men’s watch segment, broadening our appeal to a wider audience.
When did Bulgari take its place among the creators of Grand Complications?
This milestone was reached in 2000 when we acquired the renowned watchmaking brands Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth. Today, Bulgari stands as the only Swiss watch brand producing a wide range of timepieces – from Grand Complications and jewelry watches to both women’s and men’s watches. This diversity is precisely why we participate in several industry events; with such a varied portfolio, it’s essential to showcase our innovations across multiple platforms.
What sets Bulgari’s watchmaking division apart from other luxury watchmakers?
Our legacy in jewelry watches is a cornerstone of our identity, and it remains one of our most promising areas for future growth. (Shows a model) Consider this piece, for instance—80 percent of it is a jewel, featuring a tiny yet exquisite mechanical movement, the world’s smallest, weighing only 1.2 grams.
«We’ve redefined the ultra-small mechanical movement for the 21st century»
We call it «Piccolissimo,» akin to our «Finissimo,» another world record—this time not for its thinness, but for its miniature scale. During the 1970s quartz crisis, small mechanical movements disappeared, but we’ve redefined the ultra-small mechanical movement for the 21st century. In many ways, Bulgari continues to shape the future of watchmaking.
What are you showcasing at the «Geneva Watch Days» this year?
Before I mention the real highlights for this year’s «Geneva Watch Days» edition, let me introduce to you the thinnest-ever Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC chronometer, measuring a mere 1.7 millimeters. It’s among the most significant innovations in the past decade and marks our ninth consecutive world record. (Shows another Octo Finissimo) Another notable achievement is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, which won the prestigious «Aiguille d’Or» at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2021 for its exceptional blend of technical innovation and iconic design. I am confident that we will continue to receive recognition for our innovations this year.
Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon. (Image: Courtesy)
Now: At the «Geneva Watch Days» this year, we unveiled an exciting collection under the theme «The Sound of Bulgari.» We presented the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie, our most complex watch to date, featuring a minute repeater with a unique melody crafted by Lorenzo Viotti. The Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon showcased a tourbillon along with a minute repeater and three hammers. The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon impressed with its slim design and sophisticated chime function. We also celebrate 70 years of the Stratocaster with the Bulgari Aluminium GMT x Fender Limited Edition. Lastly, the Serpenti Pallini High Jewellery, featuring the Piccolissimo calibre, dazzled with its miniature marvel.
Could you tell us about the watch you’re currently wearing?
This is the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon, a piece we developed in collaboration with Lorenzo Viotti, the Italo-Swiss conductor and current Chief Conductor of the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra and the Dutch National Opera, and officially launched today. He is an extraordinary talent in the world of classical music and he has brought his remarkable artistry and expertise to this unique creation.
How did this collaboration come about?
Viotti has a passion for watches, but he was surprised to discover that most chiming watches play the same melody. During a conversation with him and Antoine Pin, our Head of Watchmaking, we proposed creating something truly different. Two months later, Viotti returned with an idea, and he spent weeks working with our master watchmakers in Le Sentier to compose a new melody. Instead of using the conventional Westminster chimes, we developed a completely original sound, opening a new chapter in the world of chiming watches.
What makes this watch truly unique?
We are pioneering a new approach by partnering with an acclaimed musician to redefine the melody of a chiming watch. While most chimes rely on symmetrical intervals, Viotti introduced the tritone interval, a musical concept with centuries of history that evokes tension and vibrancy—a perfect match for an Italian brand like Bulgari. We spent two years perfecting this new melody, which departs from the familiar Westminster or Big Ben tones.
«The movement alone consists of 900 components dedicated solely to the chiming mechanism»
What was the main technical challenge in developing this new melody?
Traditional chiming watches strike at regular intervals, but to achieve asymmetry in the chimes, we had to completely redesign the hammering mechanism. Now, the hammers strike at irregular intervals—first half a second, then a quarter, and then back to half—introducing a variability never seen before. This represents a major technical breakthrough. The complexity is staggering; the movement alone consists of 900 components dedicated solely to the chiming mechanism.
900 components just for the chiming complexity?
Yes, and the real breakthrough was in redefining the melody after 200 years of tradition. To do this, we had to advance hammer technology, while keeping the rest of the watch’s design contemporary. Even though it’s a limited edition of only five pieces, priced at 1 million euro each, it’s a modern accessory for a much younger clientele than we saw 30 years ago.
Bulgari has been strengthening its partnerships in the world of music. What’s driving this focus?
We collaborate exclusively with artists across various fields—whether it's conductors like Beatrice Venezi and Lorenzo Viotti, actors such as Zendaya and Anne Hathaway, or musicians like Lisa from Blackpink. These collaborations go beyond simple endorsements; they contribute to product development. Music, with its ability to resonate and evoke emotions, adds a profound layer of emotional depth to our watches. By innovating not only in physical craftsmanship but also in emotional experience, we elevate our creations to new heights.
CEO Babin (to the right) with conductor Lorenzo Viotti (next to him). From the left: John Sheridan, Antoine Pin, and Pascal Legendre. (Image: Bulgari, Courtesy)
The brand is part of LVMH’s watch division, which has recently undergone some management changes.
Yes, several key appointments were made, including Julien Tornare moving to Hublot and Antoine Pin transitioning to TAG Heuer. These strategic appointments, while they may seem coincidental, are actually a testament to the dynamic evolution and fresh perspectives shaping our group. These changes underscore our commitment to bringing new energy and innovation to our brands, positioning us for even greater success in the industry.
With Antoine Pin's departure, who will succeed him as the head of Bulgari’s watch division?
Jonathan Brinbaum has been appointed as his successor. Until very recently, Jonathan led Bulgari’s fragrance division, which operates out of Neuchâtel—right alongside our watchmaking facilities. I fully supported his promotion because, like myself when I entered the watch world from consumer goods in 2000, Jonathan is highly intelligent and adaptable. His open-mindedness and curiosity are sure to drive his success in this new role.
«I'm very happy where I am and apparently the leadership at Bulgari is also very pleased with my contributions»
How would you evaluate Antoine Pin’s contribution to Bulgari?
Antoine’s appointment as CEO of TAG Heuer is well-deserved. His exceptional track record at Bulgari and his previous experience at TAG Heuer have clearly demonstrated his leadership capabilities. While Bulgari's watch division represents a part of the brand, leading TAG Heuer will allow him to leverage his expertise across the entire organization. This transition reflects his readiness to drive TAG Heuer’s strategic vision forward.
You are one of the few top executives that stay in their position.
As far as I'm concerned, I'm very happy where I am and apparently the leadership at Bulgari is also very pleased with my contributions.
Since 11 years, Jean-Christophe Babin is serving as the CEO of Bulgari, the Italian luxury brand known for its high-end jewelry, watches, and accessories. Babin joined the company in 2013 after a successful tenure as CEO of TAG Heuer, the Swiss luxury watchmaker. His leadership at Bulgari has been marked by a focus on expanding the brand’s global presence and enhancing its reputation for innovation in both jewelry and watchmaking. Industry experts estimate that revenue at Bulgari more than doubled under Mr. Babin's tenure to about $3.5 billion. Prior to his roles in the luxury sector, Babin—who earned an MBA from HEC Paris—built a diverse career that included stints in consumer goods and strategic consulting. In 2020, he was instrumental in creating the «Geneva Watch Days», an important industry fair.
